Fashion

Elsa Schiaparelli Exhibition Surrealism Paris

Published

1 year ago

July 4, 2022

Ody Team

Elsa Schiaparelli Exhibition Surrealism Paris

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PARIS — A woman wears a long thermometer on a hook hanging from her ear, her chin upturned and eyes gently closed, in a photograph taken by the artist Man Ray around 1920, not long after the influenza pandemic of 1918.

One hundred years later, another woman hangs on her ear a negative Covid-19 rapid test, decorated with rhinestones and a dangling gold heart. This photo was taken in late 2021.

These are the images — which have nothing and everything to do with the designer Elsa Schiaparelli — that came to mind while walking through a new exhibition dedicated to the Italian-born couturière, who founded her label in 1927.

Schiaparelli was a designer who put things where they should not have been: hands-on belts, aspirin on necklaces, cicadas on buttons, claws on the fingertips of gloves. But these “little jokes,” as The New Yorker wrote of her style in 1932, “turned out to be big influences.” (The jokes were also, at times, so practical that they became less funny: During Prohibition, Schiaparelli sold an evening coat with a bustle able to conceal a flask; later, she made a jumpsuit to wear in air raid shelters.)

But the designer has also developed a reputation for being “underrated,” said Olivier Gabet, director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which will present “Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli” from Wednesday to Jan. 22.

Schiaparelli at a masquerade ball in Paris in 1952.

“You understand the invisibility of women artists with the case of Schiaparelli,” Mr. Gabet said. Though a handful of museums have devoted major fashion exhibitions to her in the past 20 years, Schiaparelli is less recognized within the history of Surrealist art, he said, despite close associations with Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Man Ray, whose work is arranged beside hers in the new exhibition.

In fashion, “everybody helped themselves” to her work following the closure of her couture house in 1954, Mr. Gabet said. Schiaparelli turned newspaper clippings into fabric before John Galliano, and a woman’s torso into a perfume bottle before Jean Paul Gaultier. Even today, with her revived label finding a new audience under creative director Daniel Roseberry, her name is not as well known as those of the men she influenced, like Yves Saint Laurent and Hubert de Givenchy.

This exhibition arrives as another attempt to correct that: not just to impress viewers with her original creations and artistic connections — plus a fair amount of Mr. Roseberry’s recent work — but to implant in them the knowledge of how far her curious mind and angular arms have reached into modern fashion. Look around and Schiap, as she was known, is everywhere. Even in a pair of bedazzled antigen test earrings, made nearly 50 years after her death, by a Spanish college student with a D.I.Y. hobby.

Contents hide

1 “Gilt Without Guilt”

2 Cookies, Bugs and Fingernails

“Gilt Without Guilt”

The Paris exhibition plays the hits.

Encased in glass is a black Schiaparelli hat worn like an upside-down high-heel shoe. Nearby is a version of the off-white silk organza dress worn by Wallis Simpson for Vogue in 1937, the same year she married the former King Edward VIII; an enormous lobster lolls down the front and back of the skirt. Both pieces originally were designed in collaboration with Dalí.

There is also an assortment of knits that made Schiaparelli a star: One of her earliest designs was a sweater printed with a trompe l’oeil bow around its neck that she first wore to what she called a “smart lunch” in Paris. “Sweater-minded” women, she wrote in her 1954 autobiography, “fell on me like birds of prey,” among them a buyer from a New York department store.

But it is not just Schiaparelli’s surreal style signatures that continue to resurface in fashion (like Marc Jacobs referencing those knits in 2016, as just one example). The legends around her also resonate. In her autobiography, Schiaparelli wrote of being an “ugly” child who planted seeds in her throat, ears and mouth, in hopes of growing “a face covered with flowers like a heavenly garden.” (Surviving near-suffocation, she later designed a summer dress covered in fabric appliqués resembling seed packets.)

The image calls to mind the transformative shrub makeup and floor-length capes seen in Thom Browne’s spring 2022 show. Or, more recently, the Loewe collection of coats, jeans and sneakers covered in real sprouted grass by Jonathan Anderson, its creative director, and the designer Paula Ulargui Escalona.

The way Schiaparelli presented her work, too, is still relevant. She was an early adopter of themed collections, choosing subjects like music, astrology, the pagan (making women look like Botticelli paintings) and the circus.

The 1938 circus show, in particular, with its hired dancers and clowns, has been long cited as an example of Surrealism’s rise amid the threat of war. Describing it as “riotous and swaggering,” Schiaparelli unveiled lavish embroidery inspired by ringmasters and acrobats, and accessories like balloon handbags and ice cream cone hats. It was jubilant and escapist but memorable for its taste of death, too; with Dalí, she debuted a long black skeleton dress with padded ridges mimicking protruding bones.

One month after the circus show, Hitler invaded Austria. While carnival collections and skeletal dresses have recurred in fashion, few designers have found themselves at the same intense intersection of surreal themes and ominous timing.

A bolero from Schiaparelli’s 1938 Circus collection. — Credit…Decorative Arts/Christophe Dellière

Moschino, fall 2022. — Credit…Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

One recent exception: the theme-prone designer Jeremy Scott. His fall 2022 show for Moschino was inspired by a fanciful mansion come to life, à la “Beauty and the Beast,” with models dressed like grandfather clocks or with candelabras on their heads (courtesy of the Surrealist milliner Stephen Jones), on a set inspired by “2001: A Space Odyssey.”

The show took place on the day Russia invaded Ukraine; backstage, Mr. Scott wore a shirt that read “Gilt without guilt.”

“I design these collections six months in advance — I’m not Nostradamus,” Mr. Scott said recently by phone. “But I do think that, whether it’s war in Ukraine or just the things that happen in our daily lives that may seem insignificant in comparison but still feel so strong and dramatic for us individually, we’re always in need of joy and whimsy. We’re in need of the way that fashion can transport us emotionally.”

Of Schiaparelli’s work, Mr. Scott said he was most inspired by the Dalí collaborations, including her bureau suit, complete with five drawer pockets with plastic knobs — Moschino’s mansion collection included three dresses with drawer handles and ornate gold trim — and the rebellion in assigning new roles to familiar objects.

For her, a lamb chop became a hat. For him, a Champagne bottle became a purse. They’re both in the business of transformation, refashioning women as shrubs, currency, court jesters, warning signs, plates of food — all elegant little monsters. (Cocteau in 1937 called Schiaparelli’s headquarters “a devil’s laboratory.”)

Yet beyond the need to escape reality, Mr. Scott acknowledged surreal fashion also satisfies a desire for attention that is stronger today than in the 20th century. There is “a hunger to stand out,” he said, when “we consume so much information from a small screen in the palm of our hands.”

Cookies, Bugs and Fingernails

Walking through the exhibition a few days before its opening, Mr. Gabet was thinking about how young audiences might respond: “I’m not sure the name Elsa Schiaparelli is so familiar to them,” he said. “If they know the name, it’s through Daniel’s work.”

While the exhibition was planned before Mr. Roseberry’s appointment in 2019, it includes much of his work, like Lady Gaga’s outfit for the 2021 Biden inauguration (fitted navy jacket, oversize dove brooch, low-slung red ball skirt) and the intensely gold sculptural minidress-coat worn by Beyoncé in British Vogue this month. Mr. Roseberry’s most public achievement at Schiaparelli has been bringing a freaky sophistication to the often staid world of red-carpet and celebrity dressing.

“It’s really woken everybody else up,” said Brett Alan Nelson, the stylist who dressed the singer Doja Cat in a breast-baring black Schiaparelli gown for the Billboard Music Awards in May. Her accessories? A gold bag shaped like a planet, earrings shaped like ears wearing earrings, and shoes shaped with toes.

(That wasn’t a new direction for Doja Cat, a “weirdo” who prefers “art pieces” to “pretty dresses,” Mr. Nelson said: For her role hosting the MTV Video Music Awards last year, she wore a series of mind-bending looks, including a bistro chair hat, chicken-feet boots and a dress that looked, in her words, “like a worm.”)

In text accompanying the Paris exhibition, Mr. Roseberry said he had kept Schiaparelli’s signatures at “arm’s length.”

“I kind of had this image of her passing the torch,” he said. “I don’t think she would be interested in seeing her work reissued over and over again, a century later. I think she would be championing the new, and I can only hope that that would include me.”

There is already a whole genre of emerging designers pulling more directly from, and remixing, her work. Vivetta Ponti in Milan makes hands-shape collars and painted-nail gloves. (The Schiaparelli originals are part of the Paris exhibition, along with a photograph by Man Ray believed to be the inspiration.)

Olivia Cheng of the New York-based brand Dauphinette makes jewelry from preserved plants and fruit encased in clear resin, similar to a Schiaparelli necklace of insects pressed into plastic. Just as Schiaparelli affixed metal bugs to a suit collar, Ms Cheng affixed beetles to the bodice of a while silk organza dress for her fall collection. Except the bugs she used were real, obtained from Thailand and dead of natural causes. (“I don’t think a lot of people liked them quite honestly,” Ms. Cheng said. “When something is real, it almost makes it a little less pretty, a little more chaotic.”)

Dauphinette’s beetle bodice. — Credit…Naoko Maeda

Last year, the brand Area sexed-up the butterfly motif of the 1920s with outrageous bling-y glasses. For its most recent collection, the co-founder and creative director Piotrek Panszczyk said Area treated the “corny idea of flora and fauna in fashion” similarly — blowing up and reworking the kinds of flowers Schiaparelli used as embellishments into something harder, more “kooky” and “mysterious,” like a spiky crystallized miniskirt set (though still in a color similar to her signature shocking pink).

Still, it is not easy to sell surreal fashion or “little jokes” en masse — or at least at the volume required to make a living. Carolina García Caballero, the 21-year-old student who made the antigen test earrings, felt so overwhelmed by the online response and demand (catalyzed by Katy Perry commissioning a pair) that she decided not to sell them, even after gathering hundreds of negative tests and shooting photos for an online store. Instead, she said, “I chose myself and my mental health before money,” finishing her comparative literature degree, working at a poke bowl restaurant and making plans to travel around Europe.

While the artist Carly Mark co-founded her fashion line Puppets and Puppets in New York City in 2019, actually producing it has been a more gradual process. (The first season, nothing was for sale.) A retailer once asked her to put a cake hat into production, she said, but she couldn’t figure out how to get the costs low enough.

The chocolate chip bag by Puppets and Puppets. — Credit…Puppets and Puppets

Then came the cookie bag: a critically acclaimed simple black handbag affixed with an “unsettlingly perfect” resin chocolate chip cookie made by the artist Margalit Cutler, priced at about $350. Ms. Mark said she had been thinking about the circular logos on the center of bags by Telfar or Tory Burch, when it occurred to her “to make fun of the placement of a logo by placing this surreal object on it.”

“As funny and attractive as a cookie on a bag is, it’s also fake, and you’re aware of that. I’m laughing at you, but you’re in on the joke,” she said. “I think that was very much the way Elsa’s brain worked. It’s inspiring she was able to do that during a period in time when women didn’t have the same power, necessarily, that we do now.”

For Ms. Mark, surreal fashion is not about escapism or attention, but finding a way to express personality and sense of humor. It’s about finding communities of like minds, like Schiaparelli and the Surrealists did in the 1930s.

“We’re born into these bodies, and we get to present them to the world in whatever way we want,” Ms. Mark said. “How do we adorn our outsides to match what we’re feeling on the inside, so that people might understand us more easily?”

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Ody Team

Ody Team is a qualified social media expert at Coding The Line, London. He had graduated from the University of Cambridge

Fashion

Budget Friendly Long Shrugs for Women That Look Expensive

Published

1 week ago

November 23, 2023

wabisabi

Post Views: 96

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Fashion enthusiasts know that looking stylish doesn’t always mean breaking the bank. In the world of trends and must-have wardrobe staples, one item stands out for its affordability and elegance of budget friendly long shrugs for women. These versatile pieces not only elevate your outfit but also prove that you can achieve a high-end look without a hefty price tag. Let’s delve into the world of affordable fashion and discover how you can snag long shrugs that exude luxury without burning a hole in your pocket.

The Rise of Affordable Fashion

The fashion industry has witnessed a significant shift in recent years, with more emphasis on inclusivity and affordability. Gone are the days when style was synonymous with a hefty price tag. Today, fashion-forward individuals can find on-trend pieces at budget-friendly prices, and long shrugs are no exception.

Materials Matter

Achieving an expensive look on a budget begins with choosing the right materials. While genuine silk and cashmere may be out of reach for budget-conscious shoppers, there are plenty of high-quality alternatives that mimic the luxurious feel without the extravagant cost. Look for long shrugs made from soft and flowy fabrics like rayon, polyester blends, or even viscose. These materials not only offer comfort but also drape beautifully, creating a sophisticated and expensive appearance.

Classic Colors for Timeless Appeal

When it comes to budget-friendly fashion that looks expensive, sticking to classic colors is a foolproof strategy. Timeless shades like black, navy, camel, and ivory exude sophistication and are easy to mix and match with various outfits. Investing in a long shrug in one of these classic hues ensures it becomes a versatile wardrobe staple, effortlessly elevating both casual and dressy ensembles.

Embrace Minimalism

The key to making budget-friendly long shrugs for women look expensive lies in embracing the beauty of simplicity. You should opt for designs with minimal embellishments, and more kind of printed shrugs with floral, animal, or many trendy prints. A sleek, open-front shrug with subtle detailing like ribbing or a fine knit can easily pass for a high-end piece. Remember, less is often more when it comes to creating an expensive-looking aesthetic.

Tailoring and Fit

Regardless of the price, the right fit can make all the difference. Look for long shrugs with well-executed tailoring that flatters your body shape. A well-fitted shrug, even at a lower price point, gives the impression of custom-made elegance. Pay attention to details such as sleeve length and overall length to ensure a polished and sophisticated appearance.

Shop Smart Sales, Clearance, and Secondhand Finds

Achieving an expensive look on a budget requires a bit of savvy shopping. Keep an eye out for sales, clearance events, and discount codes from your favorite retailers. Many budget-friendly fashion brands offer stylish long shrugs for women at a fraction of the original cost during these promotions. Additionally, exploring secondhand or thrift stores can unearth hidden gems, allowing you to snag a high-quality long shrug at an unbeatable price.

DIY Elegance

For those with a knack for creativity, consider giving a budget friendly long shrug a personalized touch. Add embellishments like buttons, lace, or embroidery to elevate its aesthetic. DIY projects not only allow you to tailor a piece to your liking but also create a unique look that sets you apart from the crowd. With a bit of imagination and some basic crafting skills, you can turn an affordable long shrug into a custom-designed masterpiece.

Mix and Match

The true art of budget-friendly fashion lies in the ability to mix and match pieces to create diverse looks. Pair your long shrug with both casual and formal outfits to maximize its versatility. By styling it differently each time, you can create the illusion of an extensive and expensive wardrobe without investing in numerous pricey items.

Concluding Off

Budget friendly long shrugs for women by Wabi Sabi Styles that look expensive are not just a fashion myth but a reality for those who know where to look and how to style. With a keen eye for quality materials, classic colors, and smart shopping strategies, you can build a wardrobe that reflects your style without draining your wallet. Embrace the beauty of affordable fashion and let your budget friendly long shrugs become the secret weapon in your quest for a chic and sophisticated look.

Fashion

Introducing YNY Shoes: Where Comfort Meets Style with a Dash of Quirkiness!

Published

1 month ago

October 24, 2023

Odyssey

Post Views: 114

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Are you sick of cramming your toes into footwear that appears to have been created by a medieval tormentor? Or perhaps you simply want to stand out in a crowd without coming off as a fashion victim by wearing shoes that can do that. So, dear friend, please welcome to the world of footwear your new best friend: YNY Shoes. We’re going to take a stroll into the fascinating world of YNY Shoes, so fasten your seatbelt (or your laces, in this case).

What in the World are YNY Shoes?

The question “What on earth is a YNY Shoe?” may be on your mind. Not a secret code for the newest conspiracy idea, so don’t be alarmed. Your doorway to fashion, comfort, and a dash of fun in the world of footwear is YNY Shoes. They are like your everyday shoes’ hip relative, ready to go on an adventure.

Comfort that Hugs Your Feet

Introducing YNY Shoes: Where Comfort Meets Style with a Dash of Quirkiness!

YNY Shoes are more than just a statement of style; they’re like a warm hug for your feet. You know those times when your feet feel as though they have been through a fight from the Middle Ages? Bid adieu to bygone times. You’ll feel the kind of ease with YNY Shoes that will make you want to dance through life—or at the very least, walk without grimacing.

Style with a Dash of Quirkiness

YNY Shoes are your fantasy come true if wearing dull shoes is your worst nightmare. You will look like the star of your own eccentric fashion show if you wear these shoes. People are going to ask, “Where did you get those cool shoes?” because of the variety of patterns, from fun polka dots to vivid stripes.

A Bit of Humor for Good Measure

YNY Shoes recognize that life is too brief to take anything too seriously. These sneakers are meant to add a little comedy to your every step with clever slogans and entertaining graphics. Who wouldn’t smile when they have a pair of shoes with the words “Dino-Mite” or “Pawsitive Vibes” written on them?

Exploring the Versatile Range

A range of styles are available from YNY Shoes to suit various tastes and moods. They have a variety of styles for everyone, including canvas slip-on shoes and traditional lace-up sneakers. Need a colorful pair to go with your carefree attitude? They possess it. Need something more understated for a laid-back day out? That is also taken care of by YNY Shoes. Additionally, their entertaining and original styles guarantee that no matter the situation, your shoe game is always on point.

The Gift of Uniqueness

Are you sick of forgetting your shoes at the gym or accidently swapping them with your friends? That issue can also be resolved by YNY Shoes. In order to prevent anyone else from taking your shoes, you can personalize them with your name or a particular message. It’s like a stylish “hands off my shoes” sign!

Eco-Friendly Footwear

YNY Shoes cares about the environment in addition to making your feet happy. They use eco-friendly materials in many of their shoes, allowing you to walk with less of a carbon footprint. These sneakers have the approval of Mother Earth, and you will too.

The YNY Shoes Community

Introducing YNY Shoes: Where Comfort Meets Style with a Dash of Quirkiness!

The community that YNY Shoes has established is among its best features. When you wear a pair of YNY Shoes, you’re not just following the latest fashion; you’re also joining a vibrant, friendly, and supportive community of people who share your sense of humor and appreciation for fashion and comfort. It’s comparable to joining a posh club where the only admission cost is a killer pair of shoes.

YNY Shoes offers your feet a breath of fresh, amusing air in a world full of boring shoes. They are the remedy for uninspired clothing and the prescription for walking with a smile. So why choose the usual when a pair of YNY Shoes may help you embrace the extraordinary? Step forward, step a zany and comfy step at a time, let your feet speak for you. Make the world your runway by putting your best foot forward now!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: Are YNY Shoes comfortable for all-day wear?

A1: Absolutely! YNY Shoes are designed with your comfort in mind. You can wear them all day, whether you’re at the office, going for a walk, or dancing the night away.

Q2: Do YNY Shoes come in different sizes?

A2: Yes, YNY Shoes are available in a wide range of sizes, so you can find the perfect fit for your feet.

Q3: Can I clean YNY Shoes easily?

A3: Yup! YNY Shoes are easy to clean; a gentle wipe or toss in the washing machine should do the trick. Just don’t forget to remove the insoles first!

In Conclusion

YNY Shoes are more than just shoes; they’re a humorous conversation starter, a devotion to comfort, and a reflection of your personality. YNY Shoes has got your back, or more specifically, your feet whether you’re an introvert trying to make a statement or an extrovert trying to draw attention!

So keep in mind that dull shoes are for the birds the next time you go shoe shopping. Choose YNY Shoes and let your feet speak for you, or perhaps “walk the quirky talk”?

It’s time to enter the world of YNY Shoes, where style and comfort are combined with a dash of eccentricity. Don’t merely blend in; instead, stand out and bring joy to others, one step at a time. Who knew wearing shoes could be so enjoyable?

in your make the finest impression with YNY Shoes!…

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